Presented on Friday, March 6, at Carrousel du Louvre in the center of Paris, the ISSEY MIYAKE Autumn Winter 2026/27 collection, Creating, Allowing, is an investigation of the question: as designers, to what extent should we insist upon our intent to “create”? Or, is it perhaps the deliberate will to leave things open and unfinished that “allows” inherent beauty to reveal itself?

This collection explores the relationship between deliberate intervention in design and the absence of it, the unfilled space. It is about letting go of the desire to maintain control throughout a creative process, and—upon recognizing the nature of materials as they are—designing only to the extent of framing the beauty found in the materiality as worn on the human body.
This notion rests upon a fine balance: the will to create something as one wishes, and the will to restrain from doing so. The seemingly understated presence is by no means relinquishing one’s faculty to design; rather, it is the result of “allowing”—a sense of richness achieved only through rigorous trials of ingenuity and a meticulous practice of restraint.

A layer of fine silvery sand laid on the floor defines the center of the room, as if sourced from crushed ores; its stillness broken only when the first model stepped into it. The sandy surface became marked in the wake of the models, shimmering through its transformation.
This metamorphosis was an irreversible phenomenon triggered by a considered disruption, contingent on the progression of the show. This space, layered with finely shredded aluminum foil, serves as a device for the interaction between “material”, “people”, and “clothing”. A new relationship emerges, when an unfilled space—the beauty of a familiar material realized by the simple act of layering—starts to “relate” to another through intentional intervention.

ALLOW

By zipping a single piece of cloth into a tube and wearing it on the human body, a three-dimensional draped form naturally emerges. ALLOW explores the notion of minimizing design intervention and leaving the form-making to the wearer's own body.
The fabric is woven with stretch yarn and washi-blend yarn developed specifically to mimic a stone-like texture. The weft uses a loosely twisted washi and cotton yarn; the warp uses stretch yarn, with fewer threads compared to the weft, bringing out the material's inherent heathered texture.

FOUND STONE

FOUND STONE is a knit series inspired by the quiet presence of a stone found by chance. The knit is a reinterpretation of the form and texture of the stone, created by combining rib, garter, and mesh knit structures through seamless knitting technology, and finished with one single stitch.
The rough, stone-like texture is reimagined by twisting two different colored polyester yarns; mesh structure makes it a lightweight knit.

HANDSOME KNIT

HANDSOME KNIT is a knit series featuring a three-dimensional shoulder form. In contrast with the material’s nature to adapt and stretch to the body, the tailored, jacket-like shoulder creates an entirely new knit silhouette.
This design is supported by a construction that knits different types of yarn on the exterior and interior. Underneath the warm-textured wool exterior, a layer of stretchable recycled polyester yarn is knitted to hold the overall form together.

UNTITLED

To what extent should one “design” a garment to call it complete? Can beauty be found by leaving it unfinished? As UNTITLED suggested, the intention to leave a large piece of fabric as it is—as if it were unfinished—is an exploration of the boundary between completion and incompletion.
The textile uses a high quality wool that has been treated with resin to provide enough give and suppleness. The elegant sheen and strong depth of color highlights the organic qualities of the draping.

WRING PLEATS

WRING PLEATS features hand-wrung pleated twists that create a vision of lively movement on the textile. The integration of linear machine pleats with the craftsmanship of hand-twisting accentuates the rippling qualities within the design, creating an almost primitive look.
The polyester fabric is finished with a lustrous coating, bringing out the fine shadows of the pleats, enriching the garment's dynamic movement with the body.

CORRELATION

CORRELATION features a coat that retains the form of a single piece of cloth, paired with a contrasting skirt featuring a voluminous, round silhouette created by a circular-shaped construction.
The lightweight textile is woven with hollow polyester yarn and is treated at a lower temperature to finish. This treatment gives the textile a unique matte texture and crispness.

CALLIGRAPH

A piece of cloth creates CALLIGRAPH’s fluid silhouette that envelops the wearer’s body in layers. The garment is not “created”, but rather “formed” by one single, continuous curve.
The textile uses a high quality wool that has been treated to give it structure and firmness, making the silhouette stand out three-dimensionally. The colors of jet black and deep purple further enhance the beautiful drapes and shadows formed by the wrapping of the continuous piece of fabric.

URUSHI BODY

URUSHI BODY is built upon the concept of the obi (kimono sash) and the bustier, as a modern iteration of framing the body with a rigid shell. Its presence, as if contouring the body's curves, presents a new relationship between clothing and form.
URUSHI BODY is made by craftspeople in the Echizen region of Fukui Prefecture, by hand-tearing large sheets of handmade washi paper and layering them with natural toromo glue on 3D-printed molds. The pieces are then sent to craftspeople in Kyoto to be finished with multiple coats of lacquer, transforming the warmth of washi into a solid form with a gentle gloss—an integration of traditional crafts and modern technology.

CAMPER x ISSEY MIYAKE
Anna

Created based on the sleek, pointed outsole of Camper’s Anita style, the design of Anna is inspired by the notion of “wearing shoes like socks”. It features a soft TENCEL™*-blend stretch-knit upper that is easy to wear and holds the foot in place.
Following Peu Form (a slip-on/mule inspired by “heritage”) and Karst Finch (a sneaker expressing “playfulness”), Anna is the third footwear offering and the first heel of the partnership that conveys a “physical and sensuous” theme. Its understated design wraps the foot, accentuating the physical beauty of the human form. The juxtaposition of the soft, breathable knit against the sculpted silhouette of the outsole lends itself to a variety of occasions, ranging from formal to casual.
Anna is available in a low shoe style in black and beige, and a boot style in black, blue, and dark navy.

*TENCEL™ is a natural innovation derived from sustainably sourced wood fibers.

Please click the link below to view all looks of this collection.